A Story from East Africa

 

 

My two week holiday, to East Africa, began as our empty British Airways plane touched down into Dar e Salaam international airport. Myself and Karen had a rough plan of our trip but were open to suggestions. We wanted to do a safari in the Serengeti National Park and Nogorogoro crater and we wanted to visit Zanzibar.

Our journey commenced the following day when we boarded the first class African bus bound for Arusha. I was pleasantly shocked to find a bus with padded seats and a t.v. We chose to seat ourselves next to the open door which allowed for a constant flow of fresh air. Although we had padded seats, we didn't have air conditioning! (But who were we to complain?) After only one hour I was reminded once again what I loved so much about Africa. As we drove along at break neck speed, I gazed out of the window and watched the tiny straw huts disappear before me. I marvelled at the African ladies as they balanced huge branches on their heads and I waved to the small children alongside the road.

It amazes me that the people with the least in this world seem to be the happiest.

The first day of our safari began in the usual African style. We were left waiting for almost an hour and then told that the two people joining us had chosen to go ahead alone - typical! This meant that if we wanted to stick to our original plan and leave that day then we would have to pay more money, also typical!

We decided to pay, I couldn't bare the excitement of waiting another night. So after even more waiting around, a thing we now recognized as 'Africa time', we finally started our safari.

Our driver was a middle aged African named Jedi, and he was accompanied by his girlfriend, who's name I never did remember. Our cook was a handsome young guy called George. Altogether they made a brilliant team.

Our first day turned out to be quite different from the rest of our safari, in terms of scenery. Lake Manyara is very green and covered with trees and bushes. We spotted giraffe, zebra, elephants and baboons. The view over the lake at sunset could easily have been a scene you would find in a fairy tale - already I didn't want to leave. The place we camped the first night was conveniently named mosquito valley, I managed to get bitten alive through my cotton trousers!!

After our superb breakfast the following day, of eggs, toast, jam and fresh fruit, we set off for the Serengeti. The drive was long and tiring but along the way we spotted two cheetahs eating a wilder beast. They seemed totally unfazed by us, so we sat right next to them for almost forty minutes. They are the most beautiful creatures and so elegant. This alone made up for any amount of hours driven.

Driving into the Serengeti has to be one of the most breathtaking sights I have experienced. You suddenly realize how vast Africa is. It gives you the same feeling as lying under the African sky at night, you feel so tiny. The planes went on as far as the eye could see. They were covered with wilder beast and zebra migrating to the Masia Mara. It was just a sea of black bodies. Driving along a little further we spotted a lioness casually strolling towards us. The wilder beast scattered at the sight of her but she wasn't hunting, in fact she seemed like she didn't have a care in the world. I think she was just out for an afternoon stroll.
The next couple of days were spent driving around soaking up the scenery, the beautiful birds and the sun. We drove to a hippo pool and spotted two crocodiles basking in the sun. We also watched a lion eating a zebra. He was just beside the road and had obviously killed it himself but he wanted to share it with his friends. He kept roaring for them but no one came. In the end he attempted to drag the zebra across the road to them. Although after a few minutes he decided this was to much work and resigned himself to the fact that he would have to finish the zebra himself - and he did!
After the 'Serengeti' we headed for the Nogorogoro crater which as the name implies is a huge volcanic crater which is filled with thousands of animals. The Nogorogoro conservation area is the land surrounding the crater. It is the one place where the Masia tribe of Kenya and Tanzania are allowed to farm and live ( They are not allowed to live in the game parks) During our drive we watched the tribesman, in their typical red gowns, herding cattle and walking miles for water. They live happily with just their straw huts and small herds of cows and goats. The men of this tribe are allowed as many wives as they can afford. I think they are one of the only tribes left in Africa which still circumcise their women!!!

The crater is another incredible sight. The animals live inside the crater walls peacefully amongst the abundance of pink flamingo's. It is truly beautiful. We were lucky to watch two lions mating. They spend seven days having sex, around every 15 minutes, and have no water or food for those seven days!!

Back in Arusha we had tears in our eyes as we said goodbye to our safari team. After so much driving during our safari we didn't think we could face another 8 hour bus journey back to Dar e Salaam, so we caught an Air Tanzania flight back. This left us with a day in Arusha to relax and buy souvenirs.

The next leg of our journey was Zanzibar, a tropical island of the coast of Tanzania. Zanzibar used to be the slave trading island for the Arabs and Europeans. Amongst the crumbling buildings and narrow streets a mixture of cultures and races now happily mingle.

Myself and Karen decided to hit the beaches on the north of the island first. We went to a place called. The beaches here seemed to go on forever. The water was so clear you could see straight to the bottom. After only five minutes on the beach we were offered a fresh coconut which we saved and split open as we watched the sun go down.
During the two evenings we were there we went skinny dipping. The water was full of tiny sea algae which glow like a thousand stars when you move them. We splashed around for ages making the water sparkle. Everything seemed to come alive. Then when we got bored of that, we would gaze up at the stars and wish we could be here forever.
Unfortunatley though all good things have to come to an end. We had to catch a mini bus back to Stone Town for some exploring. We spent the next days wandering through the tiny streets, chatting to locals and visiting the main tourist spots. One being the terrible slave quarters hidden beneath.
My favourite part about being in Stone Town had to be the delicious local fish/food market. Around seven o'clock at night the locals set up their stalls along the waterfront and sell the most wonderful fresh seafood and local Zanzibar cuisine. Every night I would eat a plate full of lobster, calamari, crab and tiger prawns for the equivalent of £2.

I left Zanzibar on the 27th May and caught a (not so empty) British Airways flight to Gatwick. I couldn't believe the morning I woke up to leave, how many things I had seen and done in just two weeks.

I had an overwhelming feeling of sadness  as I landed in London. I knew I would miss the generosity and friendliness of the Africans, I would miss the feeling of being at one with nature but most of all I would miss the freedom of travel