In the morning I returned the mosquito net
to the villager, we said our good byes and pushed off. A majority
of the locals were still sleeping when we left. I guess I assumed
that rural people always wake up at the crack of dawn.
In the morning we drifted well. I had finally
figured out the pattern of the weather. The mornings were usually
calm and clear while the afternoons were breezy and would often
get cloudy. We only had to row hard a few times to break away
from the shore. I was actually getting a bit bored of sitting
on the raft and just floating along.
During the middle of the day I took a nap.
I asked Pali to keep an eye out and make sure that we stayed
on the main river course and did not diverge on to one of the
slow flowing channels. Pali was tired too and she took a brief
nap. During that time the river forked and we drifted to the
smaller channel. I awoke and realized that the raft had reached
stagnant water. We could not rely on the current to carry us
so we had to paddle to make any headway. I was mad at Pali.
I think my tiredness, the mosquito bites and the constant fight
against the river and winds had taken their toll on me. I unfortunately
vented my frustration on her. We yelled for a while as we paddled
until I did not feel like talking at all. We reached a point
along the channel where we met fishermen. We asked the fishermen
about the closest town. They told us that there was a large
town called Contamana about 8 hours down river. By their estimates,
we would not make it until midnight.
We finally reached the main river and its
strong current. We decided that we would try and make it to
Contamana. The river moved fast, there was no wind and we made
good time. As we floated along I inspected the logs that made
up the base of the raft. The bark lashings keeping the logs
together were slowly breaking apart. We had lost two logs already.
Other logs were barely held together. The raft was falling apart.
We still had a good amount of supplies, plenty of dried fish
for example. The only thing we really lacked was motivation.
The mosquitoes had taken their toll on my psyche. I dreaded
the thought of spending another night in a sleeping bag, covered
with clothes during a hot tropical night. The river was getting
wider and I knew that if the raft did break apart it would be
difficult to swim to shore. As the river widened the riverboat
traffic increased. We could barely paddle out of the path of
a few riverboats. Some riverboats seemed to head purposely towards
us. Maybe they were trying to frighten us or could not see the
low profile raft. We also had not idea how many days it would
take to reach our anticipated destination, Iquitos. All of these
factors added up to make us decide to make Contamana our final
destination. We knew that the town was a stop for riverboats
and we could catch one for the final leg of the journey.
In the evening I made a fire in the cooking
pot and set it at the bow of the raft. My hope was that it would
allow other boats to see us once it got dark. I did not want
to camp another night. Once we decided that Contamana was going
to be the final destination, we were going to float all night
until we arrived.
The low winds and strong current allowed
us to make very good time. Fortunately the fishermen were hours
off on their estimated time of arrival. We arrived around 7
PM at Contamana, just as the sun was about to set. We had to
row frantically one more time to make it to the port area. We
were on the far side of the river when we saw the town and had
to row across the fast flowing, wide stretch.
We reached the shore and people helped us
tie up. The smells and bustle of your typical jungle town were
inviting. It was good to be around such development again. We
left the raft and found a café owned by a very pleasant lady
who sold us a good meal and beers. The next item I bought was
a mosquito net. We returned back to the raft where we spent
the night for the last time.